Dom. Marquis D’Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru, Champans , 2016 Magnum
The d’Angerville legacy is like no other. Situated in the heart of Volnay, with eight premier cru vineyards, this prestigious cellar was one of the first in Burgundy to estate-bottle wines, a practice of which was practically unheard of in the region prior to the mid-20th century. Then owner, Sem, Marquis d’Angerville was also central to the development of the Premier and Grand Cru system. Many say that he and his friend Henri Gouges did not put forward any Grands Crus from their own villages, Volnay and Nuits st Georges, to ensure the process was seen to be completely impartial! Taking over from his father in 1952, Jacques D’Angerville and his non-interventionist methods turned his family’s domaine, Marquis d’Angerville, into the village’s icon.
After a career spent in banking, Guillaume D’Angerville returned to take over the estate after the death of his father in 2003. And there has been no let up on quality, if anything his tweeks (as he likes to say) has raised the quality bar even further – taking the domaine fully biodynamic, hard vineyard work, minimal intervention in the cellar and a maximum of 20% new oak has made his family’s pinots revered around the world.
Volnay is typically described as feminine, floral and elegant. It sits in-between a weighty Pommard and a powerful Côte de Nuit, the pinot it produces is ethereal and graceful, has an aromatic complexity, a silky texture and great ageing potential.
“The Champans is excellent this year, opening in the glass with a complex bouquet of plums, cassis, rich soil, espresso and blood orange, framed by new oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, powerful and concentrated, with a layered and rich impression, its tannins cloaked in a deep core of succulent fruit”.
Drinking Window 2026 – 2045 – William Kelley, Decanter 93 pts