Arguably the finest and most prestigious Burgundy house in Volnay, Domaine
de la Pousse d’Or has now been in existence since the 1100s, when the Duchy
of Burgundy held all the titles in the land. It was originally called Bousse d’Or
or ‘Golden Earth’ in middle French (the name is commemorated in their
flagship wine Clos de la Bousse d’Or,) but over time the word evolved to its
current iteration. By the 19th century it had become part of a larger domaine
which also encompassed other reputable properties as Romanée-Conti and
Clos de Tart. But without proper maintenance and over time the domain fell
It was eventually Gérard Potel who resurrected Domaine de la
Pousse d’Or to its glory. In 1964 Potel acquired the domaine through a
marriage to the then owner’s niece. He unified the two properties in Volnay
into one 17-hectare nucleus, where Pousse d’Or is headquartered today. With
his untimely death in 1997 the domaine was purchased by Patrick Landanger
and since then, he has invested heavily in both the winery and the vineyards.
In that time, they have implemented biodynamic practices in the vineyards
and organic winemaking practices in the winery, including extended lees
ageing. In 2018, Patrick handed over the management of the Domaine to his
son, Benoît, who had been working alongside him for the previous 5 years.
The style of la Pousse d’Or is elegant and refined and the estate has holdings
in both the Cote de Beaune and the Cote de Nuits, including 5 Grand Cru
vineyards and 11 Premier Cru vineyards, of which 3 are Monopoles. The
individual plots total about 17 hectares of vineyard and all are biodynamically
managed and are located in the iconic villages of Volnay, Chambolle-Musigny,
Corton, Pommard, Puligny-Montrachet, Morey-Saint-Denis and Santenay.
Diligent green harvest and selection leads to very low yields. Mechanical
sorting precedes manual sorting, and then the grapes are destemmed. Mostly
biodynamic practices. All wines are unfined and unfiltered. Wine sees a week
of cold soak then three weeks maceration. Then the wines go into 30% new
oak and are bottled 15-18 months later depending on the vintage.
We have a been lucky enough to get an allocation of some of the 1er and
Grand Cru wines from La Pousse d’Or for Green Man Fine Wines:
Benoît on 2017:
2017 was an incredible year in Burgundy, from the perspectives of quality,
quantity and balance, it’s great …” The wines of 2017 at La Pousse d’Or, like
those of 2016, were made with limited quantities of sulphur and some wines
are matured in clay amphorae.
La Pousse d’Or, Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Groseilles 2017 €160
The appellation of Chambolle Musigny les Groseilles (meaning red currants) is
located just below the Grand Cru les Bonnes Mares, on the northern side of
the appellation. Although Chambolle Musigny generally is acknowledged to
produce a delicate, elegant style, the rocky marl soils of Les Groseilles, give a
more solid style of wine.
91-93 Points The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 1er Cru has an
attractive bouquet, a little earthier than Pousse d’Or’s other Chambolle
Premier Crus, slightly ferrous with orange rind and a slight steely scent. The
palate is sweet on the entry with tart black cherry fruit, quite saline with fine
mineralité towards the finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. (NM-Neal
La Pousse d’Or, Volnay 1er Cru Clos D’Audignac 2017 €115
A monopole (meaning the entire vineyard plot is owned exclusively by the
domaine of La Pousse d’Or), Volnay is a top quality Beaune appellation for red
wines, producing fragrant reds with great finesse. The plot is 0.7ha and north
facing and produces long lived, fine wines.
91-93 Points The 2017 Volnay Clos d’Audignac 1er Cru, the 0.70 hectare
monopole and the only parcel of the domaine inhabiting a northern exposure,
has a charming bouquet with strawberry preserve, rose petal and light orange
blossom aromas. The palate is full of energy on the entry with very fine tannin,
silky smooth in texture but with good weight and density towards the finish.
There is a dash of spice that lingers on the aftertaste that completes this excellent Volnay. Recommended. (NM)
La Pousse d’Or, Pommard 1er Cru Les Jarolieres 2017 €105
A well-situated premier cru, bordering Volnay and Les Rugiens-Bas, one of
Pommard’s finest sites.
89-92 points – “Here the nose flirts with hints of barnyard on the earthy and fresh
red berry aromas. There is more volume if less refinement to the tautly
muscular medium-bodied flavors that exude plenty of minerality on the
lingering if not especially complex finale. This is sufficiently firm to warrant a
decade plus of cellaring where more depth should develop”.
La Pousse d’Or, Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2017 €100 (Cuvée Amphore)
90-92 points – “This cuvée has a similar bouquet to the regular cuvée
but with continued aeration, is less earthy with subtle minty scents
developing. The palate is fleshy on the entry with fine tannin, a little more
savoury in style with a touch more weight on the finish. Fine”. (NM)
La Pousse d’Or, Corton Grand Cru, Le Clos Du Roi 2017 €130
91-93 points – “The 2017 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru has a
seductive, floral nose that is more Côte de Nuits than Beaune, with
copious red cherries, raspberry and rose petal aromas. The palate is
medium-bodied with supple tannin, the oak a little more pronounced
than the Corton-Bressandes but that will integrate during the remainder
of the barrel maturation and there is a welcome white pepper/red
peppercorn sensation that pops up on the aftertaste. Very promising”. (NM)
E&EO, these wines are in stock but with limited availability. For more information, please email firstname.lastname@example.org or phone 01.5594235 / 0871347752